(14.6% alcohol; from vines on stony soil over calcaire; vinified with 40% whole clusters; winemaker Vigil begins with a bit of carbonic maceration, then does a traditional fermentation, using only punchdowns): Bright, dark ruby. Strong crushed-rock minerality on the nose, along with aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice and bitter chocolate, all lifted by a piquant floral quality. Densely packed but precise and perfumed owing to its chalky energy, conveying an impression of moderate ripeness to its dark berry and light herb flavors. Quite tight and youthfully imploded but already displays an alluring subtle sweetness. Perhaps most impressive today on the back end, which features substantial firm but fine-grained tannins and terrific rising, expanding length.
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